Ann's Places

Ann’s Early Travels

It has been thought that Ann Walker never travelled, that she never left her home. That couldn’t be further from the truth.

Scarborough

The earliest mention of Ann taking a trip is 12 July 1821 in Anne Lister’s diary. She wrote that the Walker family was going to Scarborough for three weeks. Unfortunately, this entry is the only record found to date of this trip. Learn more about Scarborough here.

“Between 12 and 1 Miss Anne Walker and her brother (of Crownest) called and staid 1/2 hour they are all going to Scarborogh [sic] for 3 weeks on Saturday”                                                                                                                                                           West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale SH:7/ML/E/5/0042

Trip to Weymouth

On 4 May 1824, Christopher Rawson wrote in his diary, “MAR to London Bath & Weymouth with Elizabeth and Ann Walker”.

Image of an entry in Christopher Rawson;s Diary.
West Yorkshire Archive Service WYC 1525/6/5/1

Mary Ann Rawson (MAR) was Christopher’s wife and she left Halifax with Elizabeth and Ann on 4 May to pick up John Walker from Brasenose College, Oxford, where he was at university, on their way to Bath and Weymouth.

Bath

John wrote from Bath to his cousin William Priestley on Tuesday 8 June 1824:

“I came down here with Mrs Rawson and my sisters on Saturday evening since which time we have been looking for lodgings, and have at last fixed upon some in Poultney St, which appears to be the most pleasant situation.[…] I am in want of some money at present, and as I shall most likely want a good deal before I get Home, (as I do not yet know where I shall go the beginning of the Vacation) it will be less trouble to have it at once; therefore shall be much obliged if you will send me £200 to Oxford as soon as is convenient to yourself. Elizabeth desires me to say She will be much obliged to you to send Her £100, to No 2 Poulteney St. Bath."                                                                                                                                                                                                West Yorkshire Archive Service Calderdale WYC:1525/7/1/7/4

John headed back to Oxford on Wednesday 9 June and Mrs Rawson, Ann and Elizabeth remained in Bath until Thursday 24 June.

Image of Bath
Great Pulteney Street and Laura Place (to the left)
Courtesy of Alexa Tansley
Image of Bath
Great Pulteney Street in Bath
Courtesy of Alexa Tansley

In another letter, dated Monday 21 June 1824, John again wrote to William Priestley from his university, sharing that the Bath Waters did not agree with Elizabeth and she, Mrs Rawson and Ann were headed to Weymouth on Thursday 24 June. John would join them the following week.

“I had a letter from Ann this morning, saying, that they intend setting out from Bath for Weymouth on Thursday. I believe the Bath Waters do not agree very well with Elizabeth. I intend going to them at Weymouth about the middle of next Week and shall most probably remain with them until they return Home.”                                                                                                                                                               West Yorkshire Archive Service Calderdale WYC:1525/7/1/7/4

Weymouth

The Walker sisters and Mrs Rawson left Bath and travelled to Weymouth. The local newspaper announced the arrivals at Russell’s Royal Hotel; among the guests were Mrs Rawson and the Misses Walker.

Newspaper article announcing Mrs Rawson & the Misses Walker arrival at Russell's Royal Hotel.
10 June 1824 Dorset County Chronicle©The British Library Board
Image of the Royal Hotel in Weymouth
The Royal Hotel
With permission of Weymouth Museum, Weymouth, UK
Public Walks document for Weymouth
What people did in Weymouth in the 19th century
A New Weymouth Guide 1800
Map of Weymouth
Location of The Royal Hotel on The Esplanade
With permission of Weymouth Museum, Weymouth, UK
Weymouth Guide
Sea bathing was a popular activity in Georgian Weymouth
Weymouth Guide

The original Hotel that Ann stayed in was demolished in 1891. A new Royal Hotel was built in its place (see photo below).

After a stop in London on the way home from Weymouth, Mrs Rawson, Ann and Elizabeth returned to Halifax on 9 August 1824.1

Ann was away from home for almost 14 weeks on this trip.

Cheshire

Ann made several trips to visit her cousin, Eliza Ainsworth and her Revd husband in Cheshire. The first visit there is documented in a letter written on 2 February 1830 from William Priestley to Capt Sutherland:

“Ann Walker set out yesterday morning to Mrs Ainsworth’s, where, I understand, she intends to stay about a fortnight.”
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale CN: 107/1

Ann’s brother John died on 19 January 1830 while in Naples on his honeymoon. The news had not yet reached Halifax when Ann left for her visit. The news was known by the time of the letter of 18 February from William Priestley, again, to Capt Sutherland, expecting that Ann’s visit may be extended at the Ainsworths due to this sad news:

"[...] under an impression that, there might be no one at Crownest on your arrival, thinking that poor Ann would remain in Cheshire for a few days, ‘till she recovered from the first shock, which this unlooked-for event, must occasion.-"
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale CN:107/2

There was another visit to the Ainsworth’s documented in Anne Lister’s diary of 15 June 1831:

"[...] In passing, called at Lidgate, hearing that Miss Walker had returned (from Cheshire Reverend Mr. Ainsworth of Davenham near Northwich) home last night — not yet got to her house — was at Crownest saw all over the house at Lidgate —"
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale SH:7/ML/E/14/0071

It’s unknown how long each of these trips were. Most likely, these weren’t the only visits Ann made to the Ainsworths.

Dover

During the very difficult time after her brother John’s death, Ann travelled to Dover to meet Fanny (Frances née Penfold Walker), John’s widow, when she returned to England from Naples. Learn more about Dover here.

Old Dover, Kent painting, about 1830, unknown artist. Dover Collections
Old Dover, Kent, about 1830
unknown artist
Image credit: Dover Collections
https://artuk.org/discover/artworks/old-dover-kent-about-1830-76204

In a letter, dated 23 December 1830, from James Penfold (Fanny Walker’s brother) to Elizabeth Sutherland, he wrote of it:

"[...] At Dover when Miss Walker, I suppose I must add, did her late brother’s widow the honor of meeting her, I believe, no allusion was made to the business, which it was the interest of all parties to have speedily and amicably settled." 
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale CN:100/2

It’s unknown how long this trip was; however, it would have been an emotionally difficult one for a sister losing her brother in such an unexpected way.

Scotland

After Elizabeth married Capt Sutherland in 1828, they eventually moved to Scotland. Though it’s not known how often Ann visited the Sutherlands in Scotland, two visits appeared in the newspaper.

In 1831, Ann and Capt George Sutherland arrived at Mackenzie’s Hotel in Edinburgh. There’s no way to know if this trip was going to Scotland or heading back to Halifax.

Newspaper article from 1831 of arrivals to Mackenzie's Hotel
12 Nov 1831 Caledonian Mercury©The British Library Board

In February 1833, it was arranged that Ann would go to the Sutherland’s home in Scotland by Anne Lister and the Sutherlands. The newspaper reported the arrival and departure of Capt Sutherland, his mother and Ann, again at MacKenzie’s Hotel on their journey.

Newspaper of arrivals at Mackenzie's Hotel
4 March 1833 The Caledonian Mercury©The British Library Board

Mackenzie’s Hotel was advertised in 1827, located at Prince’s St and the corner of Castle Street. It was a first-rate hotel with a grand view of Edinburgh Castle and the Prince’s Street Gardens. Learn more about the gardens here.

Newspaper describing Mackenzie's New Hotel
5 September 1827 Inverness Courier©The British Library Board

Mackenzie’s Hotel was listed in the 1833-1834 Post Office Annual Directory.

Mackenzie's hotel listing in the Post Office Annual Directory for 1833-1834
National Library of Scotland, The Post-Office Annual Directory for 1833-34, Edinburgh, Printed by Ballantyne and Co., 1833

Today, Princes Street Garden and Edinburgh Castle still provide a beautiful landscape.

Courtesy of Sharon Lee

A current view from Edinburgh Castle of Princes & Castle Streets.

Image of the view from Edinburgh Castle of Prince and Castle Streets.
Courtesy of Sharon Lee

Though it’s not known how long Ann’s visit to Scotland was in 1831, we do know about 1833. She left in February and returned end of December 1833. She was gone for 10 months.

Lake District

In 1832, Ann and Catherine Rawson took a trip to the Lake District, where they most likely stayed at Catherine’s father’s home, called Wasdale Hall. Learn about Stanfeld Rawson’s history of building Wasdale Hall here.

It was recorded in Anne Lister’s diary on Friday, 7 September:

“[…] found Loudon’s Gardener’s dictionary and nice civil kind note from Miss Walker — she goes on Monday with Miss (Catherine) Rawson — to sleep that night at Bowness, and, the next (Tuesday) at Keswick and thus (she says) see 7 lakes before getting to Wastdale [Wasdale] —”
West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale SH:7/ML/E/15/0114

Bowness

According to Anne Lister’s Diary, Ann and Catherine stopped at Bowness on the way to Wasdale Hall. Learn more about Bowness-on-Windermere here.

St John’s in the Vale is very scenic and only three miles outside the town of Keswick. The women would have seen views such as the photo below when travelling from Bowness to Keswick. Learn more about the Vale here.

Image of St Johns in the Vale
Courtesy of Sharon Lee

Keswick

Though it’s not known which hotel Ann and Catherine Rawson stayed in, there are two that were in existence in 1832. The George Hotel is the oldest Inn in Keswick, learn more here. The Royal Oak dates back to the 18th Century, learn more here.

The George Hotel on left: The Royal Oak on the right

Courtesy of Sharon Lee

Wasdale Hall

The women arrived at Wasdale Hall in 1832. Wasdale Hall is located on Wastwater, the deepest lake in England. More information on Wasdale can be found here.

Image of Wastwater
Courtesy of Sharon Lee

Wasdale Hall is now a youth hostel owned by the National Trust. See its history here.

Ann and Catherine returned on 25 September per Anne Lister’s Diary of the 26th:

“[…]then called at Lightcliffe — Mrs. Priestley out — then called to inquire if Miss 
Walker was returned — Yes! last night — sat with her from 12 50/.. to 2 20/.. — she had brought me
a presse-papier from the marble works at Kendal — Very civil our conversation
quite confidential and we really get on very well yet she said she could not go to Italy

West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale SH:7/ML/E/15/0121

Ann Walker visited the Marble Works in Kendal and brought back a presse-papier for Anne Lister. What was once Webster’s Marble Works has now been subdivided into dwellings. To learn more about the Marble Works here.

Image of Webster's Marble Works in Kendal
Webster’s Marble Works building today
Courtesy of Sharon Lee

Ann was on this trip to the Lake District with Catherine for 16 days.

In Summary

Contrary to popular belief, Ann did travel in her early life. She visited family, enjoyed the seaside with family, met her brother’s widow in Dover, in what had to have been a stressful trip, and enjoyed the Lake District. Because documentation is limited, these are the trips that could be verified through Anne Lister’s diary, letters and newspapers. Was Ann a recluse in her early life before travelling with her wife? Not at all. Was she a good traveller? As Anne Lister wrote to her Aunt Anne on 1 August 1834, “Ann is really very well, and in excellent spirits – She is really a very good traveller – “1

Sources

Weymouth

  1. Christopher Rawson’s Diary, West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale WYC:1525/6/5/1

Scotland

  1. Ancestry.com. England, Select Marriages, 1538-1973 [database on-line]. Lehi, UT, USA: Ancestry.com Operations, Inc., 2014.
  2. 18 February 1833, Anne Lister’s Diary, West Yorkshire Archive Service, Calderdale SH:7/ML/E/16/0018

In Summary

  1. Anne Lister/Ann Walker letter to Aunt Anne 1 August 1834, Calderdale Museums
    https://museumsdrupalcms.332ea25bc0c185b72194ca7a8-16602.sites.k-hosting.co.uk/whats-on/online-exhibitions/letter-anne-lister-and-ann-walker-1st-august-1834

Acknowledgements

  1. Trish Rafa – research & editing.
  2. Sharon Lee – research & images in real time!
  3. Stephen Lee – driver to all the locations for images in real time!

Deb Woolson / Diane Halford (2026) “Ann’s Early Travels,” In Search of Ann Walker [Accessed “add date”]

One Comment

  • Sasha

    Thanks for sharing. Never believed young lady from rich family lived like medieval princess in tower for 29 years.